On a pilgrimage to holy places, one rarely follows a rigid plan. Rather, one engages with a flow of events. Our last days in Bhutan reminded us how valuable it is to let go of expectations. We learned that special doors often open exactly when one is ready to leave the original path.

Change of Plans in Punakha: Trusting the Flow of Things

The sixth day showed us this very clearly. Actually, we had a fixed plan: We wanted to drive from Punakha back to Paro. There, we had donated 3,000 butter lamps which we wanted to light ceremonially in a temple.

But then we received news on short notice that an audience with His Holiness the Je Khenpo, the highest religious head of the country, would be possible. Such an opportunity is a great blessing. However, there was a restriction: Our entire travel group was simply too large for this spontaneous audience.

So we had to split up in Punakha. One part of the group drove directly on to Paro, while the other part drove to Thimphu, where His Holiness the Je Khenpo was staying at the time. I traveled with this group.

Thangton Dewachen Nunnery: Legacy of the Iron Bridge Monk

Arriving in Thimphu, we still had some time before the appointment. We visited the Thangton Dewachen Duthop Nunnery. It is the only one of its kind in the capital and goes back to the legendary Thangtong Gyalpo. He was a fascinating personality: A great Mahasiddha and at the same time an ingenious engineer who lived in the 15th century. He is famous as the “Iron Bridge Monk,” as he built dozens of suspension bridges made of iron chains throughout the Himalayas to allow pilgrims and travelers to cross raging rivers. Many of his constructions withstood the centuries. We were welcomed very warmly at this place: We were served tea in the courtyard of the monastery, and we could enjoy the peaceful atmosphere for a moment before we had to leave.

Kalachakra Initiation: Encounter with H.H. the Je Khenpo

After lunch, we made our way to the stadium. There, H.H. the Je Khenpo was leading the conclusion of the Kalachakra initiation. The crowds were immense. The stadium itself was packed to capacity, but that was far from enough. Countless people had also gathered on the grounds outside to partake in the event. It was a very impressive image. The ceremony was also being broadcast live on Bhutanese television. We initially had to wait before the gates until we were allowed into the stadium.

After some time, we were able to enter and were led to a separate waiting area inside the stadium. During this time, a chance but wonderful encounter occurred. We met the young Vairochana Rinpoche (Ngawang Jigme Jigten Wangchuk). He is a highly revered Tulku and the son of Her Royal Highness Princess Sonam Dechan Wangchuk. He is revered as the reincarnation of the great translator Vairochana from the 8th century, one of the most important disciples of Guru Padmasambhava.

Following this, we were granted an audience with H.H. the Je Khenpo. Filled with gratitude, we presented him with a Khata (white scarf) as a token of our deep respect. In this special setting, we also had the opportunity to present His Holiness with information regarding the ‘Holy Heavenly Lake Buddhist Town’ project. Each of us then received a personal blessing, and upon our departure, he presented us with a text of the Amitabha Sadhana for our own practice.

After the meeting with the Je Khenpo, a further great honor was completely unexpectedly offered to us: Actually, we were supposed to meet the young Vairochana Rinpoche and the Queen Mother for an official audience afterwards. But when the Kalachakra initiation ended, thousands of people streamed out of the stadium at the same time. Traffic in Thimphu came to a complete standstill. There was no getting through, and we could not reach the agreed location in time. Such are the karmic conditions sometimes. But we did not quarrel with fate: After everything we had experienced that day and the blessing we were allowed to receive, we felt richly gifted.

The Tiger’s Nest: Ascent to Guru Rinpoche’s Cave

On the last day of our trip, November 15th, the arguably most famous landmark of Bhutan was on the agenda: Paro Taktsang, widely known as the Tiger’s Nest. It is not only architecturally deeply impressive, but one of the holiest sites in the entire Himalayas.

We set off very early to reach the base camp, the parking lot at 2,300 meters. From there, it is about 800 vertical meters up to the monastery, which sits at 3,120 meters. For visitors who do not quite trust themselves with the steep climb, there is generally the option to be carried by a horse or mule for the first part of the route. Our group, however, decided to cover the entire path on foot under our own power.

The ascent took just under three hours. The path is beautiful, but also demanding. It leads through a dense pine forest where rhododendrons grow and the trees are draped with moss. Again and again, prayer flags flutter in the wind. Halfway up, we took a short rest at a café. From there, you already have a first, breathtaking view of the monastery, which literally clings to the steep rock.

Impressions (in order): Resting horses at the starting point, fluttering prayer flags against the mountain backdrop, pack animals on the dusty trail, the first distant view of the cliffside monastery, the moss-covered mountain forest, and Tsa-Tsa offerings in a rock niche.

The history of this place is closely connected to Guru Rinpoche, the great Master Padmasambhava. He is revered by the Bhutanese as the “Second Buddha,” as he brought and firmly established Tantric Buddhism, the Vajrayana, in Bhutan in the 8th century. He manifested his supernatural powers and flew to this very spot on the back of a tigress to subdue a demon. Some say that the tigress was his tantric consort Yeshe Tsogyal in a transformed state. In the cave known as Taktsang Senge Samdup, around which the monastery was later built, he then meditated for exactly three years, three months, three weeks, and three days.

Once at the top, we had to hand in our cameras and bags at the entrance, as photography inside is strictly forbidden. We visited several small temples within the complex. In a special room that is guarded around the clock, I lit a butter lamp. This is the only place in the monastery where open fire is still permitted after a devastating fire destroyed large parts of the complex in the past. In Buddhism, lighting these lamps is a meritorious central ritual.

Farewell in Paro: A Promise to Return

Back at the hotel in Paro, a special guest awaited us in the evening: Dasho Passang Dorji, the former Speaker of the National Assembly of Bhutan. He had been instrumental in organizing the official appointments and came by personally to apologize politely that the meeting with the King had not taken place due to the commotion. He promised us: “Next time I will arrange, this time the King and the Queen have been too busy.”

In a very friendly atmosphere, an exchange of gifts took place. The Venerable Master Shi Zheng Da presented him with a special art object, a luminous three-dimensional picture of a Yun sculpture designed by H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III. In return, he gave the Master a large golden Shakyamuni Buddha statue. It was a worthy moment of connection.

Scenes from the performance (in order): The famous Drametse Ngacham (Dance of the Drums), a solo dancer bowing deep, the performers of the yak scene, the humorous interaction of the yak with the audience, the women’s dance group in red garments, and finally a traditional performance with bows and arrows combining song and dance.

Afterwards, we watched a cultural performance together with Dasho Passang Dorji. There were traditional dances and songs whose gentle, flowing movements radiated great calm and peace. There were also humorous interludes, like the dance of a yak, where the performers visibly had fun. Even though I did not understand the language, the joy was contagious. After this show, we all gathered for a large group photo to capture this beautiful final evening.

The next morning, November 16th, it was time to say goodbye. From the hotel, we could look directly at the airport. We had arrived to make a contribution with our donation and our plans. But as I boarded the plane now, I felt that we ourselves were taking away far more than we had given. I took with me not only memories of the mighty mountains and venerable monasteries, but the feeling of a deep connection with our travel group and the people in Bhutan. I return with much inspiration and a heart full of gratitude for the blessing I was allowed to experience in this country.

All posts from our Bhutan journey:

Pilgrimage to Bhutan (Part 1): Arrival in the Land of the Thunder Dragon
Pilgrimage to Bhutan (Part 2): Over the Dochu La into the Valley of the Cranes
Pilgrimage to Bhutan (Part 3): Audience with the Je Khenpo and the Way to Tiger’s Nest

With many impressions from Thimphu and a feeling of gratitude, we continued our pilgrimage. Before leaving the busy capital behind for good to drive deeper into the mountains, however, we spent another day in its surroundings. After all, Bhutan is not only defined by its holy temples and deeply rooted Buddhism. The landscape itself also holds enormous power. We were looking forward to traveling to places where the country’s history and the powerful nature form a very special unity.

Semtokha Dzong: The Palace of Secret Mantras

On the third day, our path first led us about six kilometers south of Thimphu to Semtokha Dzong. This place also bears the meaningful name “Sangak Zabdhon Phodrang,” which translates to “Palace of the Profound Meaning of Secret Mantras.”

Historically, this is a milestone: The Dzong was built between 1629 and 1632 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the legendary unifier of Bhutan. He introduced something completely new here, namely the combination of a monastery and an administrative center under one roof. This innovative concept worked so well that it later became the model for all other major fortresses in the country, such as in Paro or Punakha. This historical significance mixed with a very present joy on the day of our visit. Since the entire country was honoring the fourth King’s birthday, a particularly festive mood could be felt everywhere.

But something else left a deep impression on me. In the temple rooms, the distinct scent of butter lamps hung in the air. It is a very unique smell that we would encounter again and again at other places, and which for me is now inseparably linked to the atmosphere of these holy sites.

Impressions (in order): View into the courtyard, the magnificent entrance area, water bowls as offerings, the corridor with prayer wheels, myself inside, and our group on the entrance stairs.

Takin Preserve: The Creation of Drukpa Kunley

Bhutan is deeply rooted in its spiritual traditions, where the power of the Dharma also manifests in nature. We visited the Royal Preserve to see the national animal: the Takin. It is a fascinating creature, unique to the Himalayas, with an appearance that resembles a cross between a cow and a goat.

Its existence traces directly back to the miraculous activity of Drukpa Kunley, also known as the “Divine Madman.” In the 15th century, people asked him to perform a miracle to prove his realization. He requested to be served a cow and a goat. After consuming both, he placed the goat’s head upon the cow’s skeleton. With his supernatural powers, he brought this new being to life. This event stands as a powerful testament to the Master’s unconventional teaching methods and his ability to act beyond ordinary concepts.

Impressions (in order): The spacious forest area of the preserve, a resting Takin in the shade, and an animal by the stream.

Dochu La: Commemoration at the 108 Chortens

On the fourth day, we left the capital heading towards Punakha. The road led us over the Dochu La, a pass at an altitude of about 3,100 meters. Although a few clouds obscured the view of the very big ice giants of the Himalayas, gaps opened up again and again, through which we could see the snow-covered peaks.

Up on the pass stand the 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens. They are an important place of remembrance. They were not built to celebrate a military victory in 2003, but to commemorate the fallen. It is characteristic of the culture here that triumph is not put in the foreground, but rather compassion and remembrance.

Chimi Lhakhang: The Legacy of Drukpa Kunley

In the Punakha district, the legacy of the “Divine Madman,” Drukpa Kunley, is ever-present. Even in the surrounding villages, we noticed the many houses painted with phallic symbols. What may initially seem unusual to foreign eyes is regarded here as a powerful symbol of protection.

Our next destination was Chimi Lhakhang. The path there leads very picturesquely right through green rice fields. The temple itself stands exactly at the spot where the great master Drukpa Kunley manifested his power to subdue a demon that had taken the form of a dog. He did so with his “flaming thunderbolt of wisdom.” This also explains the paintings on the houses, as they represent this victorious thunderbolt. At the place of this subjugation, a small black stupa still stands today. Also, statues of the master can often be recognized by a dog lying at his feet. Today, the place is mainly known as the Temple of Fertility, to which couples from all over the world make pilgrimages. We used the peaceful atmosphere there to chant together under a large Bodhi tree in front of the temple.

Impressionen (der Reihe nach): Der Chimi Lhakhang Tempel mit der schwarzen Stupa, eine schlafende Tempelkatze, junge Mönche beim Üben der Dharma-Instrumente und unsere Gruppe beim gemeinsamen Chanten unter dem großen Bodhi-Baum.

Punakha Dzong: Palace of Great Bliss

Afterwards, we continued to Punakha Dzong. It is situated very picturesquely right where the Pho Chhu (Father River) and the Mo Chhu (Mother River) meet. Its full name is Pungtang Dechen Photrang Dzong, which translates to “Palace of Great Happiness.” The building is not only huge but also historically of enormous importance. It was built as early as 1637 and for a long time formed the center of the then winter capital Punakha.

Even today, the monastic community moves here during the cold months. Moreover, it is a historic place for the monarchy, as the first King of Bhutan was crowned here in 1907. Inside rest the mortal remains of the state founder Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. However, this area is strictly protected. Only the King and the Je Khenpo, as well as two guardian lamas, are allowed to enter the room with the relics.

Impressions (in order): Conversations in front of white walls, roosters on the intricate roof ledge, and the entrance to the sacred temple area (Machen Lhakhang), where the relics of the state founder are kept.

Wangdue Phodrang: Rebuilding a Landmark

In the morning of the next day, we stopped at Wangdue Phodrang Dzong. This place has a moving history. It was founded in 1638 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal under the auspicious name “Palace of the Four Cardinal Directions.” It sits strategically on a ridge that resembles a sleeping elephant and overlooks the confluence of two rivers.

For a long time, it was considered the only Dzong that had never fallen victim to a fire in its almost 400-year history. But on June 24, 2012, fate struck: A technical defect triggered a fire in the early morning, and fueled by strong winds, the proud fortress burned out completely within a few hours.

But what we saw was not a place of mourning, but of hope. The reconstruction, which began in 2014, is an impressive testament to Bhutanese unity, but also to the deep friendship with neighboring India. Through close cooperation and generous support from India, this massive project could be realized. It wonderfully shows how modern engineering and cross-border solidarity are used not only to preserve traditional culture but to literally let it rise anew from the ashes.

Impressions (in order): Intricate carvings at the portal, colorful wall murals of guardian deities, the spacious courtyard, a monk at the staircase, and our group photo in front of the Dzong.

Drive through the Black Mountains

With this image of a new beginning in mind, we continued our journey towards the Phobjikha Valley. The drive was scenically very impressive. Our bus wound its way up the Black Mountains curve after curve. We had perfect weather. The sun was shining and allowed us a clear view that reached further with every meter of altitude. The road snaked along the partly steep mountain slopes in tight serpentines until we crossed the pass and finally drove down into the valley.

Phobjikha Valley: Winter Home of the Black-Necked Cranes

The Phobjikha Valley is a very special retreat. It serves as the wintering ground for the rare Black-necked Cranes from Tibet. There is a nice observation about this. When the birds arrive, they circle the local Gangtey Monastery three times. And apparently, they do the same when they leave again. Even the animals seem to have a connection to the Dharma here. We were lucky and some of us saw the first cranes that had already arrived.

Our lunch was organized for us in an open field right in front of Khewang Lhakhang. We enjoyed it with a wide view into the valley. Afterwards, we visited the temple itself. Inside are still the original statues, which at a good 500 years old are as ancient as the building itself. One of these statues is particularly well-known, as it is said to have spoken twice already.

I especially remember the story that’s connected to this place: A demon had taken the form of a young woman to deceive a young man. When the man died, the demon wanted to bring the body into the temple. But the Buddha statue spoke and denied him entry. The demon had to move on and was finally defeated by the deceased’s real girlfriend. A small stupa still stands at this spot today. Such events are not just fairy tales here; they are part of the living spiritual landscape.

Gangtey Goenpa: Spiritual Center of the Nyingmapa

The crowning conclusion of this day was Gangtey Goenpa. It sits on a ridge above the valley and is far more than just a beautiful building. It is the largest and most important Nyingmapa monastery in western central Bhutan and is considered the spiritual heart of the entire region.

The history of this place goes back a long way and begins with a vision. The great “Treasure Finder” (Terton) Pema Lingpa visited the valley in the late 15th century. He looked at the ridge and prophesied that one of his descendants would build a monastery there one day. This prophecy was fulfilled in 1613 when his grandson Rigdzin Pema Thinley founded the monastery.

Architecturally, it is fascinating. At first glance, it looks like a Dzong, meaning one of the mighty fortresses we had seen before. But if you look closely, you notice a crucial difference. The military elements are missing. There are no arrow slits and no defensive walls. It was designed purely as a place of peace and practice. I was particularly impressed by the elaborate wood carvings visible everywhere, testifying to the high level of craftsmanship.

Impressions (in order): Wall mural of Dharmapala Gyalpo Pehar in the entrance area, the view up to the intricate wooden architecture, and the sunny courtyard.

Today, the monastery is a very lively place and acts as the seat of the Pema Lingpa tradition as well as the seat of the master’s ninth reincarnation. About 140 monks live here. Together with the nearby Shedra, the Buddhist college, they ensure that the teaching is not only preserved here but actively studied and lived.

I had a special experience inside the temple. We had gone in to pay our respects to the Buddhas and chant together. Scarcely had we entered the hall when the power went out and it became pitch dark instantly. In the light of our phones, we looked for a place to sit. For about ten minutes, we chanted in this darkness, illuminated only by the faint flickering of a few butter lamps. That created a very unique mood. Suddenly the light came back on. Only at that moment did I see what was directly on the wall opposite me. My gaze fell on a beautiful mural of the 21 Taras. That was an unexpected and deeply moving moment for me.

Actually, we had a specific hope in our hearts for our return to Thimphu and Paro: We wanted to try to get an audience with the King. But as so often in life, plans do not always go in a straight line. Karmic conditions had intended another encounter for us, which we had not expected in this way.

I will tell you about that and our ascent to the famous Tiger’s Nest in the third and final part.

All posts from our Bhutan journey:

Pilgrimage to Bhutan (Part 1): Arrival in the Land of the Thunder Dragon
Pilgrimage to Bhutan (Part 2): Over the Dochu La into the Valley of the Cranes
Pilgrimage to Bhutan (Part 3): Audience with the Je Khenpo and the Ascent to Tiger’s Nest

In November 2025, I went on a very special trip. Together with 66 Dharma brothers and sisters, I set off for Bhutan. Being the only German in this group from the USA, China, Taiwan, and Sri Lanka, I felt at home right away. We were a wonderful mix of monks, nuns, Rinpoches, and lay Buddhists. We all met in Thailand first to travel on to Paro together.

Our goal was more than just a visit. We came to honor the holy sites of this country and to dive into Bhutan’s deep-rooted Buddhist tradition. Of course, we were also excited to get to know the land and its people. Dedicated members of our group took care of the entire organization. Thanks to their excellent planning and the great local guides, everything ran smoothly. We also owe the fact that this trip was possible in this special way to the Venerable Dr. Chandima from Sri Lanka. Through his personal connections to the Kingdom of Bhutan, doors opened for us that might otherwise have remained closed. Having the Venerable Master Shi Zheng Da with us was also especially valuable.

We brought two matters close to our hearts with us. First, it was important to us not to arrive empty-handed. We had collected donations within the group to directly support the hospital in Thimphu and the expectant mothers there. Second, it was our spiritual mission to represent the Buddha Dharma as we learned it from H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III. Connected to this was the wish to share news of the “Holy Heavenly Lake Buddhist Town” project, which is planned to provide space for over 30 Buddhist centers from all over the world.

Arrival in Paro & the Journey to Thimphu

We landed in Paro on November 9th. From there, we took a bus about 40 kilometers through the valley to Thimphu. What I noticed immediately was that the entire road was decorated with five-colored banners. Our guide told us that this was the welcome greeting for the international guests of the “Global Peace Prayer Festival.”

Thimphu itself was incredibly busy. Several events were happening at once: alongside the festival and the King’s upcoming birthday, Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi was also expected for a state visit. You have to know that Thimphu is the only capital city in the world without traffic lights. Despite the crowds and the resulting traffic chaos, everyone remained calm. No one pushed, and people were patient and respectful. This relaxed attitude really impressed me.

National Memorial Chorten: The Spiritual Heart of Thimphu

After checking into our first hotel, we visited the National Memorial Chorten. This is a large, white stupa in the middle of the city, built in 1974 for the third King. For the locals, this is an important place in everyday life. Many go there to walk around the stupa and spin the prayer wheels.

As at all holy sites, photography is not allowed inside. A simple rule applies: as soon as the shoes come off, the camera stays off. This allowed us to soak in the atmosphere without any distractions. The interior houses larger-than-life statues of wrathful deities in Yab-Yum posture and murals of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), Shakyamuni Buddha, and Ngawang Namgyal, the unifier of Bhutan. Colorful sculptures stand in all four directions. There are also mandalas, shrines for the third King, and images of Vajrakilaya.

Impressions (in order): The white Memorial Chorten, pilgrims at the prayer wheels, the sea of lights from the butter lamps, believers performing prostrations, and our group in front of the stupa.

Our group took the opportunity to chant on the square in front of the stupa, led by the Venerable Master Shi Zheng Da. It was a beautiful experience to do this at such a place.

Authentic Bhutanese Crafts Bazaar: Traditional Arts and Crafts

In the evening, I took the chance to stroll along Norzin Lam. That is where the Authentic Bhutanese Crafts Bazaar is located, which you enter through a distinct red gate. Behind it, many small huts are lined up where local artisans display their goods. There was really a lot to discover. Besides handmade textiles, jewelry, wood carvings, and thangkas, you can also find nice souvenirs to remember the trip by.

Global Peace Prayer Festival: Shared Prayers for Peace

November 10th was all about the Global Peace Prayer Festival. Since the stadium was within walking distance of our hotel, we went there on foot. Even on the street, we could feel how many people were flocking to this event. Once inside the stadium, we showed our respect through prostrations before the Venerables present. Afterwards, we were given a spot on the side where we could join in the peace prayers.

From there, we watched the program on the main stage, where various Buddhist traditions took turns with their recitations. Between the prayer sessions, there were traditional dances and songs. I was deeply impressed by how many people came together there peacefully. It was simply a good feeling to be right there among them.

Buddha Dordenma: The Golden Statue Above the Valley

After noon, we continued to the Buddha Dordenma statue in Kuensel Phodrang Nature Park. This is an impressive, 51-meter-high statue of the seated Shakyamuni Buddha. It is made of bronze and completely gilded. By the way, it was built to celebrate the 60th birthday of the fourth King, Jigme Singye Wangchuck.

Inside the building beneath the statue, there are over 100,000 small Buddhas, also made of bronze and gold. Every single one was donated. There is also a large meditation hall with many more beautiful Buddha statues. Various relics are kept in these rooms, which we were allowed to see during our visit.

Impressions of the Buddha Dordenma statue: The gigantic seated statue in side view, ritual structures featuring traditional thread crosses (Namkha/Mdos) on the plaza, the view up to the Buddha’s face, a relief of a blue elephant on the golden base, and the view over the square featuring golden Dakini statues.

What made this visit special was not just the statue itself. Right there, the conclusion of the Jabshi Gyap ritual was taking place. This is a major, multi-day ceremony intended to purify negative karma and bring healing. Thousands of devotees, monks, and Rinpoches were gathered. We learned that this ritual was done specifically for world peace. It was our good fortune that we could be there at exactly that moment.

A Matter of the Heart: Support for Expectant Mothers

We had collected money in advance to support 500 expectant mothers with care packages. For this reason, we gathered at the end of the day for a ceremonial handover at the hospital in Thimphu.

In addition to our travel group, hospital staff, the Secretary to the Health Minister, and some mothers also took part. We had the opportunity to personally hand over the first packages to the mothers present.

With that, the first days in the capital were over. Next, the journey would take us out of the city, to ancient Dzongs and into nature.

I will report on that in the second part.

All posts from our Bhutan journey:

Pilgrimage to Bhutan (Part 1): Arrival in the Land of the Thunder Dragon
Pilgrimage to Bhutan (Part 2): Over the Dochu La into the Valley of the Cranes
Pilgrimage to Bhutan (Part 3): Audience with the Je Khenpo and the Way to Tiger’s Nest

This book is absolutely precious. It was published in March 2014 and is based on a series of Dharma lectures given by His Holiness Dorje Chang Buddha III in China in 1992. It is a monumental work, as the original Chinese version alone comprises more than 400,000 words. It uses the text and principles of the Heart Sutra to impart the Dharma in its absolute depth.

Several years ago, His Holiness told a group of Western disciples that this was the only book one needed to read to truly understand emptiness and attain enlightenment. It serves to attain prajna, or transcendental wisdom, but at the same time teaches the importance of cultivating one’s character.

To emphasize the importance of this sacred book, we must remember the words His Holiness the Buddha addressed to us shortly before his departure from this world:

At all times, we must think about bringing auspiciousness, serenity, happiness, and peace to living beings and to the world, to the extent of giving our all and even our lives. I have already brought true Buddha Dharma to this world. Everyone who practices in accordance with The Supreme and Unsurpassable Mahamudra of Liberation and Expounding the Absolute Truth Through the Heart Sutra will surely attain liberation. That’s all. I wish all living beings happiness.

H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III

Since the official English translation is not yet available for general publication, the Holy Vajrasana Temple is currently the only place where Western students can access this work. In recent years, I have often traveled to Sanger to read the preliminary version there. My days consisted almost entirely of reading from morning to night and reflecting on the meaning. After several years, I have now managed to thoroughly read through this extensive work.

Zhaxi Zhuoma leads various study activities at the Holy Vajrasana Temple, such as retreats and courses on this work. But you don’t necessarily have to travel to California to gain access to this wisdom. There are now also online options through the Learning from Buddha Seminary. The courses are held there via Zoom and are even recorded so that students can review the materials. Zhaxi Zhuoma Rinpoche reads from the preliminary translation and leads discussions on study questions.

After completing my personal studies on site, we found time for a short trip to Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. The parks are easily accessible from Sanger in about an hour by car. This gave me the opportunity to return to the sequoia trees, which I had already visited in 2009 with my master Zhaxi Zhuoma and other students.

I love these majestic trees and I really enjoy being in the mountains. It was wonderful to drive through the national park, slowly immersing myself in the mountain world of the Sierra Nevada and letting what I had read resonate in the silence of nature.

I came into contact with the Chinese classic “The Journey to the West” from the 16th century for the first time during my stay in China in 2004. Almost every child there knew the adventures of Sun Wukong, the high-spirited Monkey King, who sets off from China to the West with his master, the Monk Xuanzang, and his disciples, the Pig Bajie and the Sand Monk, in search of the Buddha Dharma.

I too ended up travelling to the West, namely from Germany to California, in search of the true Buddha Dharma. It was a long journey, both geographically and spiritually. And just as the Monk Xuanzang and his companions were successful in the end and found what they were looking for, I also found what I was looking for: clarity about the path and the practice of Buddhist cultivation.

My first experiences with H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III

I gained this clarity mainly through studying the Buddha Dharma as imparted in the Dharma discourses of H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III. The first time I came across one of these Dharma discourses was on the internet. It was the discourse “What is Cultivation?”. There, H.H. the Buddha explains what Buddhist self-cultivation is. Until then, I had heard or read little about it. Of course, as a Buddhist, I knew that I should abide by the moral principles, such as those contained in the five precepts, that is, not to kill, not to lie, not to steal and so on. And I also read in the Mahayana sutras what it means to become a Bodhisattva. But in the end, much of what was in the sutras or the commentaries of the old masters remained quite abstract, and I didn’t always have a clear idea of what these things really meant or how I should put them into practice. That’s why I found the Dharma discourse “What is Cultivation?” to be very different: it was clear and understandable because the Buddhist concepts were formulated in everyday language. Above all, I realised the order in which certain things need to be done to achieve real and lasting results. Although I was a little confused at first because the person who gave this Dharma discourse was called a Buddha, I was so impressed by the content of the discourse that I wanted to find out more about H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III.

So I later came across the website of Zhaxi Zhuoma, who was a close disciple of His Holiness the Buddha. We exchanged many e-mails and at some point I realised that I had to meet her in person. So I finally made my way to California. Zhaxi Zhuoma lives in Sanger, near Fresno, on a site that is now the Holy Vajrasana Temple. There, together with some other people that were interested, I had the opportunity to listen to audio recordings of preliminary English translations of various Dharma discourses by H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III. I still remember very well that what I heard and learnt in that short time surpassed anything I had learnt in the years before through my own study of Buddhism.

A short personal anecdote

At this point, I would like to share a little anecdote:

Zhaxi Zhuoma had to go to Pasadena near Los Angeles during my visit to attend an important event with H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III. She thought it would be a good idea for me to accompany her. That way we could use the four-hour car drive to get to know each other better. The meeting shouldn’t take too long so that we could be back in Sanger late in the evening. She couldn’t take me directly to His Holiness, but she would drop me off in Pasadena and pick me up later. And so we set off.

We had a lovely trip and talked a lot. Later, I spent the sunny day in Pasadena, read a book on tantric Buddhism in the park that I had bought at the Temple Hua Zang Si in San Francisco, and waited to be picked up by Zhaxi Zhuoma. She arrived in the late afternoon and we made our way back. On the way, she explained to me that she had left the location earlier because she didn’t want to leave me here. So we had just left Los Angeles and its traffic chaos behind us when the phone rang and she was told she had to come back. So we turned round. As it was already late, she didn’t know if we would make it back to Sanger or if we would have to get a room. She dropped me off at a Starbucks and a supermarket and promised to come back soon after explaining the situation to her master, H.H. the Buddha.

The hours passed, it was already dark and the Starbucks was closing. I was sitting on a wall outside and a homeless man joined me. We talked for a while when Zhaxi Zhuoma suddenly appeared at the parking space. I was very happy that she had come and jumped into the car. When I already sat in the car, the man called after me. I had left my mobile phone on the wall and he brought it to me, which I thought was really kind of him. I remember that although the situation ended up being a little chaotic, I never felt like I was going to get into trouble. At night on that car parking in a city I didn’t know yet, I actually didn’t feel uncomfortable.

Back in the car, Zhaxi Zhuoma told me what had happened. As a translator was not there right away, she could not explain to His Holiness the Buddha why she had to leave. When He understood that she had dropped me off at a parking lot somewhere in Pasadena and that there were other people in Sanger waiting for our return, she was told to leave immediately. Before that, His Holiness gave her a certain number of Vajra Pills for us, one for each of us. These pills are made from real nectar given by the Buddhas in special inner tantric Dharma rituals and therefore have great powers.

My mother was very ill after a long history of suffering. Her condition was already very poor at the time. During a medical emergency, she had a cut in her air tube, which made her unable to speak. She was also so weak that she could no longer stand up and had to be cared for in a nursing home. I asked Zhaxi Zhuoma if I could give my mother the Vajra Pill I had received. She said yes, but also told me that the effect of the pill might not be visible in this lifetime, but my mum could definitely benefit from it.

When I was back in Germany, I gave my mum this pill. I also brought her a small statue of the Medicine Buddha. When she saw the Buddha statue, she started to cry and pressed the Buddha tightly to her body. I was very touched and also a little surprised. My parents were not overly religious and had never had anything to do with Buddhism in their lives. I told her to try to remember the name of Amitabha Buddha. Two months later she died as a result of her illness.

We were all very sad that she couldn’t be with us for our wedding, which took place a few weeks later. On the Honeymoon, however, I had a remarkable dream one night, and I can still remember the details of it today. In this dream vision, I was busy preparing for the wedding. There were many people around me, all helping, when suddenly my mother stood in front of me. I was very surprised that she was able to walk again. Her face looked very relaxed. She turned to me and said: “Alex, I just came back to tell you that I now understand that I have to learn the Buddha Dharma.” Then she disappeared again.

The Dharma teachings of H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III

On my spiritual journey, the Dharma teachings of H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III have deeply impressed and transformed me. In the many years that H.H. the Buddha tirelessly imparted the Dharma, He left us over 2,000 audio recordings of His Dharma teachings and many Dharma books. These include works such as “A Monk Explains the Absolute Truth to a Layman”, “Learning from Buddha” and “The Supreme and Unsurpassable Mahamudra of Liberation”.

What makes these discourses so special is their focus on the essence. In contrast to the sutras and the classical commentaries of the old masters, they are written in a language that is easy to understand and suited to our modern lives. They are practical and directly applicable, comprehensive in their entirety and deal with all topics relevant to Buddhism. Special emphasis is placed on Buddhist self-cultivation, but also on concepts such as emptiness, which are essential for the realization of transcendental wisdom – prajna. The teachings are aimed at both beginners and advanced practitioners, whereby deeper and more advanced concepts are also imparted.

Personally, these teachings have helped me to understand many Buddhist concepts such as karma, impermanence and suffering, the meaning of the Buddha Dharma, esoteric Buddhism or Tantra and the meaning of supernatural powers. An important lesson that H.H. the Buddha taught me is that Buddhism is not about learning techniques, but that self-cultivation and learning and doing Dharma practice must go hand in hand to make real progress on our path.

An outstanding example of the Dharma teachings of H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III is the book “Imparting the Absolute Truth Through the Heart Sutra”. It was published in Chinese in 2014 and is based on a series of important Dharma talks given in China in 1992. It uses the text, the meaning and the principles of the Heart Sutra to teach Dharma. It clearly presents the relationship between mind, Buddha and living beings and reveals the absolute truth of Buddha Dharma and liberation.

I had the good fortune to attend the Great Dharma Assembly 2014 in Hong Kong when the book was published and to participate in the procession that honored and praised the Dharma book. More than 28,000 Buddhist organizations from around the world participated. Although the book has only been published in Chinese so far, I was able to read the preliminary English translation at Holy Vajrasana Temple in Sanger. Every time I traveled to California, I used every spare minute late into the night to read and study “Imparting the Absolute Truth Through the Heart Sutra”. This extensive work reveals word by word the true meaning of the Heart Sutra and is a guide on how we can realize prajna and attain enlightenment. It is truly my greatest wish that others will also have access to this Dharma treasure soon.

To emphasize the importance of this holy book, we should remember that His Holiness the Buddha said to us just before He left this world: “At all times, we must think about bringing auspiciousness, serenity, happiness, and peace to living beings and to the world, to the extent of giving our all and even our lives. I have already brought true Buddha Dharma to this world. Everyone who practices in accordance with ‘The Supreme and Unsurpassable Mahamudra of Liberation’ and ‘Imparting the Absolute Truth Through the Heart Sutra’ will surely attain liberation.”

Personal meetings with H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III

As a disciple of Zhaxi Zhuoma, I had the opportunity to meet H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III in person several times. Zhaxi Zhuoma, herself an entrusted disciple of H.H. the Buddha, arranged meetings during my visits to California whenever possible. His Holiness always made time for us who did not speak Chinese. However, sometimes it was a challenge to have someone with us who could translate for us. At these meetings we were able to ask questions, receive Dharma teachings and even Dharma transmissions directly from H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III.

H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III was aware that the situation is more difficult for us non-Chinese speakers because we cannot use all sources, such as recorded Dharma discourses or Dharma books, directly because most of them are in Chinese. The translation process of these texts is very difficult and time-consuming, as the translators not only need to have a very good understanding of Chinese and English, but also need to have reached a certain level of realization in order to be able to translate the actual meaning.

Something that particularly impressed me was the fact that H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III did not accept any offerings or gifts from disciples. Although it is usual to support one’s master in this way and at the same time accumulate merit through this act, H.H. the Buddha never accepted anything in any of our meetings. Instead, He encouraged us to donate our offerings to one of the many Buddhist organizations or other good causes.

Through my personal encounters, I was able to directly experience the high moral standard of His Holiness. He constantly reminded us that we really need to cultivate ourselves, especially in situations where people are against us.

H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III himself has demonstrated this impressively time and time again, and I would like to take this opportunity to briefly discuss a case that has made headlines in the past:

H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III was persecuted by some people in the Chinese state security system because of His propagation of Buddhism and His commitment to justice and morality. After coming to the USA in August 1999 and settling there, He was falsely accused of fraud in China, even though He was not in China at the time. In addition, His house was bulldozed, over 700 works of art were stolen and some of His students were unjustly arrested.

These false accusations led China to request a “Red Notice” from INTERPOL. However, after thorough investigation, INTERPOL determined that the accusations were groundless and revoked them, with the decision officially made at the 72nd meeting of the INTERPOL Files Control Commission in France. China withdrew the arrest warrant after it was determined that H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III had not committed any fraud or crime. INTERPOL confirmed the withdrawal of the arrest warrant and informed its member states accordingly.

Despite all these events, some parties continued to disseminate the revoked arrest warrants on the Internet, misleading the public. Moreover, the alleged victims have publicly confirmed that they were not deceived by H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III.

However, all these happenings did not impress H.H. the Buddha. Instead, He repeatedly reminded us not to hate even those who wish us harm. After the whole matter was cleared up by the authorities, His Holiness did not want to take action against the slanderers to restore His reputation. However, the World Buddhism Association Headquarters wanted to draw public attention to the matter on its own initiative and published a statement in the Washington Times, in which the letter from INTERPOL was also shown.

Through my personal encounters with H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III, I was also able to experience for myself how great the true Buddha-Dharma is and what one can accomplish through correct self-cultivation and practice of the Buddha-Dharma. Even though H.H. the Buddha has said time and again that supernatural powers are not something we should strive for, they are the proof of whether someone has realized true attainments of the Buddha Dharma or whether that person is just a scholar who is good at lecturing on Buddhist concepts but has not attained any realization. There are many examples of long-time disciples of H.H. the Buddha who have attained very high realizations and are able to manifest various Dharma powers. I will discuss these examples in a separate blog post.

During my last personal meeting with H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III at the Holy Miracles Temple in Pasadena in November 2021, I asked H.H. the Buddha how I could make it clear to the people in my home country what the true Buddha Dharma is, that is the Dharma that is really capable of liberating people from samsara and is not just Buddhist theory.

His Holiness the Buddha answered me that this is not possible. Only through our own realization will we be able to convey this to others so that we can be a role model.

Why I follow H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III

The facts about H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III, such as the large number of recognitions from high Buddhist authorities, His impressive mastery of the Five Vidyas and His tireless work of helping other beings, may seem unfathomable to outsiders and even unbelievable to critics. For me, however, they are part of a very real experience.

Of course, at first I didn’t understand what it meant that His Holiness was called a Buddha. But instead of focusing on titles and recognitions, I focused on the essence of what H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III represented and lived. And what I found was far more impressive than any formal recognition: a teaching and a model that had a deep and concrete impact on my life.

H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III himself always spoke humble about Himself and His recognition and clearly stated: “Although the title of Buddha has been officially confirmed in my name, the name Dorje Chang Buddha III means nothing to me. I am not a Bodhisattva, not an Arhat, not a Venerable, not a Dharma King, not a Rinpoche. I am not a holy person. I am a human being with a heart full of humility.” This quote deeply reflects His position and strengthens my faith in the authentic Dharma teachings that He embodied.

By putting the Dharma teachings of H.H. the Buddha into practice, I experienced a transformative power in my spiritual understanding, a clearer view of Buddhist wisdom and its real impact on my daily life. These changes were tangible and real. In my family, in my professional life, in my interactions with others – in short, I felt the positive influence of these teachings in every corner of my life.

So it is not only the astonishing recognitions by Buddhist authorities that confirmed H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III as a Buddha that convinced me, not only the countless accomplishments that one can really only marvel at, or the amount of worldly honors that were bestowed upon him. Rather, for me personally, it is the direct and tangible impact that His teachings have had on my life. In H.H. the Buddha, I have not only found the highest refuge, but also a compass for the practical implementation of the Buddha Dharma, which guides me decisively on my path.

In the light of these personal experiences and in view of the deeds and works that speak for themselves, I follow H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III. He was a true Buddha and what He gave us is the true Buddha Dharma. This is what I experience and feel in my daily practice and in my heart.

Of course, you can also use these instructions to make your own mala creations. Have fun with it!

A number of prestigious Buddhist organizations, including the World Buddhism Association Headquarters, Holy Miracles Temple, Hua Zang Si, Benevolence Temple and Sanger Mission, co-hosted this two-day gathering on June 30 and July 1, 2023.

One of the most impressive moments of the Dharma Assembly was the unveiling of the first three volumes of the “Namo Dorje Chang Buddha III Complete Sutra Collection” on June 30. The new sutra collection, carried on a sedan chair by Venerable Tsemeng and Ruzun Bodi Wentu, was presented with great grace. Those present expressed their respect for the collection by bowing in a humble gesture of reverence.

During the assembly, Venerable Tsemeng emphasized the great importance of the new sutra collection for all of us. He expressed that it not only represents our gratefulness to H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III, but also serves as a guide for all who seek liberation in Buddhism. The collection contains the essence of the Tripitaka and esoteric Buddhist scriptures. It contains Buddhist precepts, views, cultivation and Dharma practices. It covers the entire spectrum of Buddhism, be it Hinayana, Mahayana or Vajrayana. Through this collection, H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III reveals the most direct and practical way for sentient beings, arhats and bodhisattvas to develop themselves. If we diligently study and practice the teachings of even a single volume of the collection while focusing on any Dharma gate, we can be sure to attain liberation.

The significance of this Sutra collection by H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III becomes even clearer when one considers the distortions and misinterpretations to which the Buddhist teachings have been subjected over the last two thousand years. With his complete mastery of exoteric and esoteric Buddhism and the Five Vidyas, Dorje Chang Buddha III has successfully corrected these distortions and brought us back to an authentic understanding of the Buddha Dharma.

In addition, H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III gave us over two thousand audio recordings of imparted Dharmas and published important Buddhist books, including “A Monk Explains the Absolute Truth to a Layman”, “Commentary on the Prajnaparamita Heart Sutra”, “The Essence of the Buddha Dharma”, “The Correction of the Treatises of Patriarch Bodhidharma”, “What is Cultivation”, “The Supreme and Unsurpassable Mahamudra of Liberation” and “Learning from Buddha”. These sources offer important insights for all those who wish to escape worldly suffering and attain enlightenment.

We recited the sacred “Sutra on Understanding and Realizing the Ultimate Truth” under the guidance of Jiaozun Zhengda the next day and made offerings of gratitude to the Buddhas and Bodhisattvas. Among the 108 people who made offerings on behalf of their Buddhist organizations one after the other in procession, I offered a temple bell on behalf of the Xuanfa Dharmazentrum Cologne. This is now back on the main altar of the Dharma Center as a blessed object.

During the Dharma Assembly, I was also lucky enough to express my gratitude in a short interview with the attending press. For us Westerners, it is a challenge to engage directly with the teachings as most of them are in Chinese. With the forthcoming English translations, I, along with many non-Chinese speakers, look forward to being able to better access the comprehensive wisdom of the Buddha-Dharma.

Access to preliminary translations of the Dharma discourses

Until the sutra collection is published in English, it is possible to listen to some of the Dharma discourses of H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III in English. The Learning from Buddha College & Seminary offers courses that include some of the Dharma discourses, including those from the Buddhism for Beginners and Advanced Buddhism series. Registration as an auditing student is required, but free of charge, and allows access to these courses where the preliminary English translations, read by Zhaxi Zhuoma, are available as video recordings.

She highlighted her concerns about the understanding and practice of Buddhism by the majority of Western Buddhists, reflecting that many may define it in secular and psychological terms, inadvertently overlooking the possibility of leaving samsara or the cycle of birth and death. The article documents Gesang’s personal transformation, beginning with her Buddhist journey introduced by her husband’s Japanese Zen teacher. Over time, she developed a deep love for the Dharma and an unwavering belief in being a Buddhist. However, she found herself in need of authentic teachings and an exemplary Buddhist teacher.

I would really like to recommend this article to you as we can all learn a lot from it.

Read the whole article “Gesang Suolang’s Story” on holyvajrasana.org

Gesang Suolang left this world on July 4, 2023.

However, this changed fundamentally in 2009, when I met my master Zhaxi Zhuoma and got to know the Buddha-Dharma as imparted by H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III. His Holiness presented the Buddha-Dharma, which had already been taught in our world by Buddha Shakyamuni, in a language and form of expression that corresponds to our modern reality of life. This opened up understandable and applicable ways for me to integrate the Buddha-Dharma into my life for the first time.

This blog is a platform on which I would like to share with you the insights and experiences I have gained, as well as news and interesting facts about the Buddha-Dharma. I owe the positive changes in my life primarily to the teachings of H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III, but also to my beloved master Zhaxi Zhuoma and the mutual support of my precious Sangha community. The most important thing I learned was that self-cultivation and Dharma practice must go hand in hand. Because only then will you be able to achieve real accomplishments in the Buddha-Dharma. Anything else is a waste of time.

However, it is important for me to emphasize that the insights presented here merely reflect my own experiences and should in no way be confused with the actual Dharma teachings. Such teachings can only be given by Buddhas or high Bodhisattvas. H.H. the Buddha has made it clear that such teachings should only be given by holy beings who have attained at least the rank of Gold Button Grade 3. All others would inevitably make mistakes in the exposition of the Dharma.

I invite you to use this blog as a source of inspiration for your personal spiritual journey. Be inspired by the possibilities that the practice of the Buddha Dharma can open up for you. Start exploring what your own Dharma path might look like, if you haven’t already. If you wish, I will be happy to accompany you on this path. Understand this space as an invitation – to read, reflect and discover the deep truth that the Buddha-Dharma holds.

Your Gongjue Tuji

Image source: Amitabha Buddha at Hua Zang Si, San Francisco (yhelfman Shutterstock.com)